Surlys opens today at the old Table for 20 site near Taylor Square, with owner Brody Petersen conceding he's late to the party with his American barbecue menu.
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The restaurateur admits Sydney is already up to its firepits in barbecue and US style dude food, but believes he has a secret weapon in chef Brendhan Bennison. Bennison, from the south of America, had his own restaurant and portable barbecue trailer for events.
"We're calling him the 'honky chef' and how many places in Sydney have one of those?" says Petersen, who describes Surlys an order-at-the-bar, authentic American tavern.
It's certainly rich in the trappings of the genre, with US beer signs and neon fittings. And the menu hints it won't be making any concessions to local tastes.
"If your chicken appears pink in the middle, it's supposed to. It's just the meat's reaction with the smoke. So calm down for chrissakes," the menu warns.
Petersen has been on the opening trail after forging his name with north American-style venues in Bondi, including the Stuffed Beaver, before taking a higher stakes punt on Frank Lowry's old parking space in Woolloomooloo, opening Riley Street Garage in late 2013.
Surlys, his latest venture, is located at 182 Campbell Street, Surry Hills.